On a sun-bright Friday in late May I crossed the Mersey on the famous ferry for the first time in about 50 years. I had vague thoughts of visiting the Francis Bacon exhibition at the Tate but really I just fancied a wee trip in the sunshine. During the course of my mini-break there were two images that struck me - Dazzle, and the Pope. And two comparisons.
Dazzle? Thats the name for the camouflage used on ships in the first world war to confuse the enemy. Unlike other forms of camouflage, dazzle camouflage works not by concealing but by baffling the eye, making it difficult to estimate a target’s range, speed and direction. Realised in monochrome and colour, each ship’s dazzle pattern was unique in order to avoid making classes of ships instantly recognisable to enemy U-boats and aircraft.
Working to a brief from the WWI Centenary Art Commissions along with the Liverpool Tate the pop artist Sir Peter Blake transformed the Ferry across the Mersey with a psychedelically colourful interpretation. I think he did a great job. It is difficult to find appropriate remembrance for such a horrific war and last year there were plenty of examples, most remarkably the Tower of London`s `blood swept lads and seas of red` with its outpouring of ceramic poppies. `Everybody Razzle Dazzle` proves that you can be respectful but also optimistic at the same time.
Optimistic is not something that can be said for Francis Bacon. I went along to http://www.tate.org.uk/whats-on/tate-liverpool/exhibition/francis-bacon-invisible-rooms .
I have to admit, I struggle with Bacon. There is no denying the intensity of emotion in his canvases but I find him impenetrable and depressing. I want art to lift me up, inspire and ennoble me. This exhibition, which focuses on the `frames` in which he placed his images, again left me cold. With the exception of one painting, the one you see above (sorry about the poor reproduction). This is one of Bacon`s many studies after Velasquez`s Portrait of Pope Innocent X. For some reason Bacon was obsessed with this image and painted it again and again over decades. Many of the studies show his characteristic `scream` treatment, but this one is more muted, and the pose is different: instead of the Pope`s forearms stretched out horizontally on the chair arms (as in the Velasquez original) here they are upraised. A gesture of frustration, of stress? I prefer to see them as a frisson of triumph. `The Pope witnesses a 93rd minute Italian winner in the Euros`. Flippancy aside, I do like this painting. I like the colours, the flesh tones, the contrast between the black background and the ecclesiastical purple.
No wonder Blake was inspired. The Velasquez original is one of the greatest portraits ever painted.
In 2008 Liverpool was named European capital of culture. This may have raised a few eyebrows `down south` but the truth is that the city has long been a patron of the arts. You may or may not be a fan of the medieval symbolism, bright hard palette and penchant for dreamy damsels with big eyes and big hair that characterises the PRB (Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood as they rather self-importantly styled themselves), but what brings The Walker Art Gallery`s exhibition "Pre-Raphaelites: Beauty and Rebellion" http://www.liverpoolmuseums.org.uk/walker/exhibitions/preraphaelites alive is its exploration of art patronage in the era of the great Victorian industrialists.
London`s Royal Academy (`RA`) had begun by treating the upstart PRB with contempt. Not so in Liverpool. They had set up their own Academy which put on an exhibition every Autumn, welcoming unsold work from the RA`s more famous Summer Exhibition.
“We are saying that Liverpool was a hugely significant place for the pre-Raphaelites,” said the curator Christopher Newall. “There was a tradition of art collecting that led to great things … but more than that there was a freedom of spirit, an intellectualism, a non-conformism and self-confidence that allowed this style of art to prosper.”
Behind the Liverpool Academy was a veritable slew of wealthy industrialists who embraced the rebellious PRB and started collecting their work with ingenuous abandon. The soap magnate, Lord Lever. The Birkenhead banker, George Rae. The tobacco merchant, John Miller. The ship owner, Frederick Richards Leyland. The brewer, Andrew Barclay Walker, (whose cash founded the Gallery itself). The walls of their mansions were stuffed with PRB work. Self-made men, they came to the world of art with no elitist preconceptions and they warmed to the PRB`s non-conformism. Even today the PRB enjoys a mixed reputation amongst art cognoscenti, but it has mostly been popular with the `man in the street`. In similar vein, these no-nonsense northern capitalists simply liked what they saw - realistic figurative images with vivid colour and a compelling narrative - and promptly bought what they liked.
Yesterday it was announced that British Home Stores was going into bankruptcy, the victim not only of an outdated retailing product but of a series of rapacious owners who had milked the brand at the expense of its customers, its employees and indeed its own survival. MP`s have called this "the unacceptable face of capitalism".
I can`t answer for the business ethics of The Walker`s Victorian Liverpool magnate-art-benefactors, and no doubt there was a touch of self-interest and status-seeking in their patronage, however there is no doubt about the wonderful legacy that they have left us. Is this `enlightened capitalism`? Maybe, maybe not. But for those of us who are lucky enough to enjoy this show, it is most assuredly `acceptable`!
Caravaggio and his time; friends, rivals and enemies is now showing at The National Museum of Western Art in Ueno Park in Tokyo. The exhibition has been put on to celebrate the 150th anniversary of diplomatic relations between Italy and Japan, and features eleven Caravaggios and more than forty other paintings by contemporaries and rivals.
Caravaggio is famed for his use of chiarascuro and for bringing naturalistic interpretations to religious and mythological subjects in a brilliantly innovative and daring manner.
The London National Gallery`s Supper at Emmaus holds me spellbound every time I visit. The incredible detail in which the food is depicted, the hypnotising way the basket of fruit seems to balance right on the edge of the table, the three dimensionality created by the disciples` hands and elbows seeming at once to come right out of the canvas at us and recede into the background. Christ has no beard and looks like he is modelled on the local blacksmith. Powerful stuff. Caravaggio painted a second Supper at Emmaus a few years afterwards and it is this second version (from Milan`s Brera Museum) that is featured in Tokyo.
Walking through the exhibition is like walking into the tenebrous depths of a Caravaggio painting; the space is kept dark, the paintings sit on a background of red velvet and are highlighted in the muted illumination from lights both above and below.
A long-lost Caravaggio is being shown to the public for the first time ever here: Mary Magdalene in Ecstasy , it was found in a private collection in 2014 and identified as an original by Mina Gregori a Caravaggio expert.
The Uffizi Gallery`s Bacchus forms the poster image advertising the exhibition. Here is another of Caravaggio`s sultry, full-lipped young men, staring out at you with a languorous indolence and a face that whilst innocent has just an ironic hint of something more. These are paintings that grab your attention, invite you in and don`t easily let you go. Naturalism but with a dreamlike sense of mystery. Go see them if you can before it closes on June 12th!
What is is about vintage tourism posters? With their beautifully drawn images, simple layout and stylish typography they manage to capture the excitement and promise of overseas travel to exotic locations in a way that photography could never do. The National Museum of Modern Art - situated right opposite The Imperial Palace grounds in Tokyo`s Chiyoda-ku - is currently showing examples of the genre in a small but well curated exhibition http://www.momat.go.jp/english/am/exhibition/visit_japan/
Japan was closed off to the outside world for 200 years but in the early years of the 20th century - fuelled by the advent of new transportation links such as the South Manchuria Railway (enabling access overland via the trans-Siberian route) - it began not only to accept but to encourage inward leisure tourism. Hence these promotional posters which convey with typical artistic economy the `idea` of Japan, its gardens, seasons, mountains and castles.
Britain has its own distinctive collection of travel posters many of which were created by the railway companies - GWR, LNER, and latterly British Rail - when great swathes of Britain suddenly opened up to the average working man. Impossible to look at these without experiencing nostalgia for the time when a trip to the seaside was a major event...
Over the last year or so I have been doing a series of `travel posters` featuring images of favourite places in Japan. I have tried to avoid the obvious cliches such as Fuji-san, cherry blossom and Tokyo Tower but its not that easy to find or photograph or create suitable compositions. Some examples are shown below and if you are interested the full set will be on exhibition at the Tokyo American Club from November 18th this year.
Japan by its very nature may never be as gaijin-accessible/friendly as some holiday destinations, but what a wonderful place to live, and heartening to see that inbound tourism numbers are finally on a steep rise. Lets hope the government tourism agencies continue to encourage this trend in the lead-up to the Olympics in 2020. So more travel posters, please. After all, Shirakawa-go is SO bracing!
Takashi Murakami made his reputation primarily outside of Japan with an idiosyncratic style combining elements of traditional and modern Japanese culture in a burst of high energy high gloss `superflat` paintings in which manufactured motifs in the guise of smiling flowers, mushrooms and his own pop icon `Mr Dob` jostle for position on crowded canvases. The work is heavily influenced by manga, anime and its associated `otaku` subculture.
Murakami struggled for recognition in Japan partly through his irreverent criticism of the backward-leaning conservatism of the art establishment there.
Over the last decade - working mostly overseas - his output and fame have grown exponentially, with major installations and events in such august surroundings as the Palais de Versailles, the Rockefeller Center and the Bilbao Guggenheim Museum. His work has expanded beyong painting and screen prints into large-scale sculptures reminiscent of Jeff Koons and into the whole panoply of commercial merchandising.
This spectacular exhibition in the Mori Art Museum on the 53rd floor of the Roppongi Hills Tower in Tokyo is his first in Japan for fourteen years and tellingly chooses a theme inspired by one of Japan`s great recent traumas - the earthquake and tsunami of 3.11.
I do not share the Japanese love of what might be termed `cute-fantasy` and have thus far eschewed the vast majority of Murakami`s work. This show has changed my mind. With examples of his earlier work and informative background on the way in which the 500 Arhats was created it bursts into life with the sheer stonking scale of the thing : at 3 by 100 metres and resplendent in its glossy psychedelic colours (acrylic paint, platinum and gold leaf on top of screen prints on canvas mounted on aluminium frames) it assaults the eyes and demands attention.
This work was created just after the Great East Japan Earthquake in March 2011. Murakami wanted to do something to thank Qatar who were swift to provide aid. The trauma felt by all had inspired an outpouring of artistic energy and Murakami wanted to do something significant, something on a massive scale. Arhats are people who have achieved nirvana or spiritual enlightenment and are able to banish evil spirits and Murakami drew heavily on ancient buddhist texts and images to create the figures. In order to bring his vision to reality he invited art students from around the country to join his collective and over 200 did so, working collaboratively in his industrial-scale warehouse-atelier-studio outside of Tokyo.
This film has more background on the creation http://www.highsnobiety.com/2015/10/01/pharrell-visits-takashi-murakami-studio/
The colours reminded me of the vibrancy and reflective impact of stained glass in a Gothic cathedral. It is perhaps no surprise given the original subject matter and the scale of the work that comparisons have been made to Picasso`s Guernica.
The exhibition has lots of other work including his `Mr Dob` and several pieces in which skulls predominate. Mortality meets Buddhism meets Anime meets Superflat. If you get the chance, visit now while the show is still on. I went on a Tuesday and the place was unexpectedly quiet. Nice!
Is it just me or is there a universal fascination with artists` studios? There is a certain voyeuristic thrill in being able to peek into the spaces where artists create their artwork. Its like walking into the artist`s head. Having never been to art school my experience of real life artists` working places is minimal and whenever I get the chance to check them out I grab it.
So finding myself in Dublin over the New Year break I was delighted to stumble upon two quintessential examples: the Irish portraitist and still life painter Edward McGuire, and the more famous Francis Bacon.
Nick Miller and the studio of Edward McGuire is currently showing at The Irish Museum of Modern Art (the IMMA) until 3rd April this year. http://www.imma.ie/en/page_236947.htm
The exhibition displays numerous objects from McGuire`s studio - the detailed colour guides he created, trays of mixed paint in multifarious hues, easels, his ubiquitous green visor and various other Heath Robinson-esque inventions to facilitate his painting: a wooden rack from which brushes could be hung, a form of camera obscura, an anglepoise-clamp-canvas holder.
Just across town from the IMMA in Parnell Square North is the Dublin City Gallery The Hugh Lane. This houses the remarkable studio of Francis Bacon, (donated from the artist`s heir John Edwards and executor Brian Clarke), painstakingly relocated from Reese Mews London and displayed lock stock and barrel in a marvellous display. The photograph at the beginning of this blog shows the original studio but the attached video links provide an interesting expose if you are unable to visit yourself. http://www.hughlane.ie/a-terrible-beauty-interviews . Bacon was born in Dublin and it is fitting that the studio now resides in the splendid surroundings of the Hugh Lane.
Bacon`s studio was located in the attic of 7 Reese Mews, up a precipitously steep staircase. There was nothing in the mundanely modest and tidy flat beneath to presage the chaotic discombobulation of the painting space - a mind-boggling clutter of paints, brushes, slashed canvas, photographs, source material, and walls upon which he had cleaned his brushes and tested colour combinations.
The studio has been meticulously recreated with over 7,000 items found and catalogued on a specially designed database and is unprecedented in museum practice. As the conservator Mary McGrath says in the introductory video to the 2009 Exhibition A Terrible Beauty "its like a latter day Egyptian tomb".
Bacon`s studio - partly through the publicity from this permanent display - has become something of an icon symbolising the immense complexity of the artistic mind. Its as if we are looking directly into Bacon`s brain at the process of creative cognition itself.
Part 2 of the fascination of artists` studios will look at the beautiful and grandiose Leighton House Museum in London which boasts a magnificent example of the genre.
In the meantime I leave you with a glimpse of my own studio in Tokyo. As this adjoins the kitchen and doubles as a living area, space and `clutterability` are somewhat limited!
There is a long history of friendship and collaboration between the members of The Royal Liverpool Golf Club (aka Hoylake) and The Atlanta Athletic Club (`AAC).
The connection originates from the remarkable feat achieved in 1930 by the famous amateur golfer Robert Tyre Jones when he won the original of golf`s `Grand Slams` by winning the British and US Amateur and Open Championships in the same calendar year. Hoylake marked the second leg of what was described as the `impregnable quadrilateral`.
Jones grew up playing golf at the Atlanta Athletic Club’s East Lake Country Club, which the club built in 1906. He served as president of the Club and was an active member until his death in 1971.
The AAC`s magnificent clubhouse is chock full of golfing memorabilia enshrined in several themed rooms including Troon, Merion, Hoylake and of course the great Bobby Jones himself.
My parents John and Muriel Dalby - lifetime members of Hoylake - reached out to Atlanta Athletic Club when they visited in the late 1970`s and presented a watercolour of the course painted by Josh Armitage, a member of the club and long time cartoonist `Ionicus` for Punch magazine. This found a home in the Club`s Hoylake Room.
40 years later I finally got to visit and was pleased to present to the Club a black and white oil painting which shows Bobby Jones accepting the Open Championship Trophy at Hoylake in 1930 (shown above). This was copied from an archive newspaper photograph which wonderfully conveys the sense of respect, admiration and joy (just look at the expressions on the faces!) with which the members of the Club as well as the general public regarded Bobby Jones. The painting was gratefully received and will hopefully when framed find a place alongside other memorabilia on the wall of the Hoylake Room.
If you missed this you have twenty one days and counting to see it on BBC i-player. Andrew Marr is well known as the BBC`s political editor and for his prodigious writing and broadcasting output. What might not be so well known is his passion for painting. In Churchill: Blood, sweat and oil paint he has found a subject which at one fell swoop combines his characteristic facility for bringing to life the famous political leaders of the past with his love of art, and in so doing lays open his own soul - and the powerful therapeutic value of "that primal business", the creative impulse to reproduce the wonder of the experienced world.
Marr builds his thesis through interviews with Churchill`s family, associated art experts and even the son of the bodyguard and art assistant who accompanied the great man in later life on his painting expeditions. These are then given colour as like some latter day Alan Whicker he expounds on location in the Cote D`Azur, Marrakesh and - nearer home - Chartwell, where the National Trust has preserved Churchill`s studio, painting implements and 130 of his works.
Painting for Churchill was a release from the pressures of his public life and interestingly for this most eloquent of public speakers, a way for him to cocoon himself in silence. His daughters, talking from memory of their childhoods and using words such as "engrossed", "electrified" and "total absorption" recall the intensity of the creative impulse that gripped their father and the way that it brought him comfort and solace from bouts of depression - his so-called "black dog".
Churchill painted in his studio at Chartwell but by all accounts was happiest painting `en plein air` and in sunnier climes - hence the South of France or North Africa - complete with parasol, cigar, panama hat and the assorted paraphernalia of outdoor painting. His preferred style was impressionistic, painterly and he was not afraid of using bold colours and bludgeoning the canvas into submission.
He characteristically dismissed his own paintings as `daubs` and indeed he must have felt rather insignificant in an artistic sense when mingling as he did with the English painters of his day - Walter Sickert, William Nicholson , John Lavery - from whom he picked up advice and tips.
Now of course his paintings fetch handsome sums and no doubt his eyes were twinkling with amusement and no little pride as he looked down from his painterly heaven on the fifteen million pounds that Sotheby`s raised last December from the 256 lots of paintings and objects from Mary Soames` estate.
For me where the BBC`s programme really hits home is how Churchill`s private passion for painting is brought to life through the prism of Marr`s own experience. There are obvious similarities - both of them took up painting in middle life as a stress reliever, both are self-taught, and both having to deal with the physical challenges (yes, painting in oils is highly physical) of recovering from a stroke. So as well as showing archive images of Churchill painting the director sets Marr himself to paint on location simultaneously as he narrates and enthuses - the camera often trained in close-up on his artist`s-persona visage. I know from my own experience how horrible it is to have someone peering over your shoulder as you paint (all artists are paranoid) and here is Marr rather bravely applying his daubs of paint his pencil scratches in the unforgiving light of terrestrial broadcast. Of course the point is not whether the painting is any good or not (and here Marr is consistently self-deprecatory), the point that he makes rather brilliantly in a sun-drenched courtyard somewhere in Marrakesh is that if you are engaged in an activity (preferably something creative, and something difficult) with full intensity then the cares of the world simply disappear. He talks about "the capacity of art and its making to restore one`s mental health" and how Churchill saw art as "a way to fling open the shutters and let the sun shine back in".
-I found similar resonances having taken up painting later in life, being self-taught, and experiencing the marvellous distraction of the painting process. I also use a `magic lantern`/projector to start off some paintings (as Walter Sickert taught Churchill) and David Hockney discusses in his book Secret Knowledge.
So do try to watch this whilst you still can.
And I take my hat off to my old university chum Andrew Marr for his candour and his enthusiasm in showing us all how - in the crucible of creation - the soul itself is salved.
Japan is fascinating, different. It challenges your preconceptions. It is a country of horrible juxtapositions. Travel to Kyoto by bullet train for the first time and you will be staggered at the concrete ugliness. Any concept of heritage preservation has been long shattered by City officials who have pulled down thousands of important cultural assets in a crass attempt at modernisation. And yet the place is studded with staggeringly beautiful gardens, temples, Edo-era streets. That these live side by side with neon pachinko parlours, high-rise bland hotels, overhead electric cables and ugly modern housing is apparently of little concern - its just the way things are in a country that rose astonishingly high on the back of the manufacturing and economic boom after WW2.
Drive into the countryside anywhere in this archipelago and you will be confronted by massively expensive engineering projects, roads that lead nowhere, dams, concreted rivers, and blighted vistas. http://www.amazon.com/Dogs-Demons-Tales-Dark-Japan/dp/0809039435 Alex Kerr has the full story.
Happily however there are some wonderful exceptions, and Benesse Art Site Naoshima , the collective name for a cornucopia of art museums, houses and installations scattered across three islands in the Seto inland Sea, is right up there amongst the very best that Japan`s art scene has to offer. http://architectuul.com/architecture/benesse-house-museum Forget any concept of art as something to be viewed on the hallowed walls of long-established ancient museums. This is art as Experience. Prepare to go on a Zen-like journey where nature meets concrete, old exists within new, and the ubiquitous contrasts that characterise this infuriatingly crazy country come into magnificent expression.
For this we have to thank Soichiro Fukutake, the billionaire founder of the Benesse publishing and education empire who like some latter-day Lord Lever had a vision, the means and the `right` kind of sympathetic local officialdom to make it happen. For Port Sunlight (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Port_Sunlight), read the Art House Project (http://www.benesse-artsite.jp/en/arthouse/). For the Lady Lever Art Gallery (https://en.wikipedia.org/?title=Lady_Lever_Art_Gallery), read the Chichu Art Museum (http://www.benesse-artsite.jp/en/chichu/).
Its a bit of a hike from Tokyo involving planes and ferries and the odd bus thrown in, but well worth the visit. There are some low-budget accommodation options but this is island life at its simplest and slowest, so don`t expect too much. The best option if your budget will stretch to it (and its not ridiculously priced) is the Benesse House itself which is a combination of museum and hotel. A number of wonderfully designed rooms at different locations on the site are offered. We stayed in the museum itself. Toddle down to breakfast and you pass a couple of Hockneys and some Richard Long land art.
A short bicycle ride or bus up the road and there are two more museums, each intimately co-existing with the natural surroundings. For now lets look at the Chichu museum. Chichu means `into the ground` and the architect Tarao Ando https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tadao_Ando has created a ethereal series of geometric spaces sunken into the hillside. You approach walking up a hillside through a garden created to mimic Monet`s water lily garden at Giverny. By the time you reach the entrance you already feel at one with the natural world. The museum is designed in Ando`s characteristic style with a series of narrow passageways, long approaches and large geometric spaces open to the sky. You are going on a journey, a journey bounded with smooth concrete and natural light. The tie rod holes on the concrete slabs are no less iconic than the chisel marks made by stonemasons on the walls of a gothic cathedral. The journey is punctuated by areas of light and shade, temperature changes and a sense of contemplative tranquillity. This is Japanese minimalism at its finest.
As you walk you come across work by the so-called `land artists` Walter de Maria and James Turrell, installations that use light to magical effect. In one Turrell work you walk up steps into a room that slopes away from you and is bathed in a light of the palest cadmium violet. You cannot perceive the walls and the ceiling. Distinctions become blurred, the space becomes other-wordly. Its like walking into a dream.
And then of course there is Monet. And water lilies. Take your shoes off and walk through into an astonishingly pure space with cornerless walls, indirect illumination from natural light, and five of Monet`s canvases from the Musee de L`Orangerie`s Nympheas series. To be honest nothing compares to the Paris Museum`s collection but here the effect is amplified by the brilliance of the way they are displayed, seeming to float in a sea of white - created by 700,000 2 centimeter square Carerra marble cubes on the floor and a wall of the same sand plaster used in Takamatsu castle that took 30 artisans a whole day to complete.
I could go on but by now you get the picture. The impression with which you leave is that the art itself is subsumed into the overall experience. I`m no zen afficionado, but in this spiritual place you can`t help transcendental thoughts from crowding in on your consciousness. Compare this with the traditional method of viewing art as in this old image of the Royal Academy Summer Exhibition!
One final museum to describe, the spectacular building created on the island of Teshima by Nishizawa Ryue, which is as if an alien spaceship had somehow deposited itself on a rice-paddy stepped hillside at the back end of nowhere.
It is in the form of a huge white teardrop-shaped blob. After removing your shoes you tiptoe through an igloo-style opening into a cavernous space with no columns or pillars and open to the elements in the form of two large circular openings through one of which you can view the sky and through the other, the trees. The atmosphere is hushed and cathedral-like. As you adapt to the mystical surroundings you become aware of little movements and glints of light on the floor beneath your feet. You realise that this is water issuing in droplets from tiny apertures in the floor. But it does not look like water. The droplets form into globular shapes that slide and shimmy across the floor like some weird living organisms or mercury escaped from an alchemist`s crucible. You find yourself drawn to sit or lie down and stare at these little water-creatures. Its mesmorising. Extraordinary in the true sense of the word. The creation of Naito Rei. You can check it out in this you-tube video ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FeZFP7VAF9I&index=1&list=PLLkoLk52gUtVSalue1rXMaPFWHkTV5QeD long but look between 3.38 to 11.03 ).
I have described some of the artworks and sites at Benesse Art Site Naoshima but there is so much more. Do try to visit if you get a chance. As for the bewildering contrasts mentioned at the beginning of this blog? Well, on the short ferry ride from Naoshima to Teshima you pass a huge copper smelting works discreetly tucked away on the north side of the island, owned and run by Mitsubishi Materials. This long predates all of the art stuff. Which just goes to show that whilst on your art pilgrimage you may be riding on a carriage of exquisite craftsmanship, below the running board turn the ineluctable wheels of Japanese industry.
These days artists supplies can be found easily and cheaply on the web. http://www.jacksonsart.com is one I have used frequently when back in the UK. But nothing beats the ability to see and touch the products right in front of you, and Japan once again comes up retailing trumps with Sekaido and its flagship store in Shinjuku, Tokyo.
Sekaido has been purveying artists materials for over 75 years since its opening in 1940 (obviously survived despite the US bomb-flattening the city, happy proof that art can flourish in the most unlikely of circumstances?).
Now it boasts 12 stores throughout the country. The pride and joy however remains the main branch, situated east of the giant transport hub that is Shinjuku station.
If you are in any way artistically inclined then you must make time to check it out. Ignore - or admire - the cheeky irreverence of the shop logo (Mona Lisa `surprised`) as you enter. Spread out before you in sumptuous abandon is a world class assortment of everything and anything to do with art.
Arranged over SIX substantial floors this place has it all - paints, brushes, canvas, easels, media, framing, stationery, paper, sculpture, manga, sumie, pencils, felt tips, arts and crafts...and then some.
The selection is mind-boggling. You want oil paints? Well you will find just about every brand you have ever heard of - Winsor and Newton, Holbein, Old Holland, Gamblin, Da Vinci, Kusakabe...and many others you won`t have. Mediums? Not a problem. Canvas frames, canvas rolls, ready made stretched canvas in 237 different sizes - or you can order a custom size for that rather special artwork you have in mind. Easels, palettes, kits for plein air. Gallons of gesso.
As a kid I used to look forward to my trips to the sweetshop. These days its not aniseed balls, toffee bon bons or wine gums but Quinacridone Rose, Naples Yellow and Prussian Blue. Names that carry the same exotic sense of anticipated pleasure.
When supplies run low I make the pilgrimage to 3-1-1 Shinjuku with no less frisson of excitement than I did 50 years ago when in search of a quarter pound of pontefract cakes. Kid in a sweet shop? Thats me, thanks to the mecca that is Sekaido. http://www.timeout.jp/en/tokyo/venue/21905/Sekaido-Shinjuku